HOW TO CLEAN and PRESS
COMIC BOOKS
WELCOME
Learn how to clean and press comic books yourself using
this free online guide. Save time and money by pressing
your own comic books with a heat press machine. Most supplies
can be purchased directly on Amazon or eBay to save time,
money, and shipping costs. I started a personal journey
trying to learn the tips and tricks of pressing comic books.
I wanted to learn techniques without showing any evidence
of pressing or damaging a book. There have been some bumps
along the way through some trial and error. This is still
a guide for beginners and the basis to get started. It is
very humbling but you will damage some books along the way.
Start small with some cheap dollar bin comic books or reader
copies. I have provided links for easy re-ordering, and
for clarification on materials required in this free visual
FAQ guide.
WHAT IS COMIC
BOOK PRESSING?
Comic book pressing is the process of flattening out a comic
book that has been wrinkled or damaged. Comics can get bent
during shipping or have creaselines from heavy reading.
Good news: Comic Books can be pressed using a t-shirt heatpress
machine, a book press, a stack of short boxes, or anything
heavy and flat. The idea is simple: to smooth out the waves
and bumps on the cover of a comic book. This makes the overall
grade and eye appeal of the book increase considerably.
Comic book pressing is not restoration, more like comic
book conservation. The difference can sometimes mean thousands
of dollars when discussing high dollar key comic books.
Do NOT press a comic book with an iron.
All of these books were pressed using methods outlined
in this guide and on my youtube channel. You too, can achieve
similar results.
HOW LONG DOES
IT TAKE TO LEARN?
Every person is different. Do you have the ability to troubleshoot?
Life experiences, patience thresholds, busy schedules, attention
to detail, and climate can depend on the speed of your learning
process. For the average person, it will take a minimum
of 2 years to fully grasp all aspects of comic book cleaning
and pressing. There are varying degrees of learning the
different eras, thickness of books, spine bindings, and
paper quality. Experience, time, and patience all play an
important factor in this experience. As with anything else
in life, it all will depend on how much time you put into
learning this procedure. Over time, you will continue to
learn new tricks, and develop your own favorite methods
and shortcuts as well.
REGIONAL CLIMATE
FACTORS
Results may vary, depending on region and climate. I live
in a Northwest state of the United States, so it is very
humid here with lots of rain and moisture from the evergreen
trees. It is also a coastal port city as well, so that adds
to the climate, temperature, and elevation. If you live
in the desert, you might want to increase the humidity time
and use less heat at a lower temperature, for example. This
is why you will see different varying opinions on the Internet
for pressing books. Climate, regional, and other environmental
factors weigh in on the success of pressing books where
you reside. In the same vein, do not press books in your
attic or garage. Dust, dirt, and humidity can also harm
your books and create pebbling or divots.
SHOPPING CHECKLIST
For this guide, you will need basic comic book pressing
equipment that can be purchased online. Please
refer to our product links page for recommended products.
DRY CLEAN
FIRST, HUMIDIFICATION SECOND, PRESS LAST
It is important to remember that any dirt on the surface
of the paper may become muddy during humidification and
will set further into the paper fibers. This will make the
paper difficult if not impossible to clean in the future.
The surface of the paper should at least be swept with a
soft, natural fiber brush before humidification. If the
papers are heavily soiled, consult a paper conservator about
surface cleaning before proceeding.
PRACTICE ON
PRESSING 7 TYPES OF BOOKS
You will need to practice first on 7 basic types of comic
books to learn the process slowly. Practice on your own
books first. Practice treating each book as if it were priceless.
- Golden Age Books are brittle, require
steam or humidity, and require extra care when handling.
- Silver Age Books can also be quite
brittle, and have edgewear like crazy. Watch for rusty
staples.
- Bronze Age Books have a different
type of paper, semigloss and with inserts.
- Modern Age Books with Glossy Magazine
Paper books can have pages stick together if too hot!
Under 150F and under 5-7 minutes at a time. (5 minutes
on each side) The pages will stick together otherwise
and you will create a razor blade comic book. It is
not necessary to place one sheet of Silicone Release
Paper (SRP) between each page of the entire book before
pressing to avoid pages sticking together so long as
you do not go any higher than 150 degrees.
- Foil books (Convention exclusives)
are more intimidating if anything. Watch your fingerprints!
Always wear gloves. Same rules apply as if it were a
glossy modern with glossy pages. Too hot and too long
will ruin the book! Keep a backer board at the centerfold
for foil books.
- Digital Code Inserts Marvel and
DC both now have online digital code inserts found at
the last 4-6 pages. You will need to use cardstock paper
to prevent the 1″ or 2" square digital code from
imprinting on last 4-5 pages and back cover.
- Gimmick Books are books that have
die cut, embossed, glow-in-the-dark, hologram, or lenticular
covers. Embossed covers will need to be cushioned with
cardstock paper. Gimmick books can be safely pressed
using less pressure under low heat (150-155 degrees)
for 5-7 minutes and left overnight in a cold press machine.
Heating up glow-in-the-dark comic book covers actually
re-activate the glow powder crystals in the paint, which
effectively make the glow effect appear brighter with
bolder colors. Cardstock covers are tough and resiliant
so they should be pressed with cardstock paper or backer
board underneath cover.
RECOMMENDED
TEMPERATURE DURATIONS
Determine what age the book is. Then determine
what type of cover and paperstock the interior pages are
made from. I would not press a book under high heat for
longer than 30 minutes per session. Too much heat can
cause flaring and damage a book as well. If your press
machine does not have a built in digital timer, you should
get one or set your phone timer.
Age |
Year |
Cover |
Interior
|
Fahrenheit |
Minutes |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2019 |
Glossy |
Stan Lee Tribute |
140 |
5 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Various |
1986-2019 |
Glossy |
Prestige / Glued |
125 |
30 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2017-Present |
Glossy |
Gloss Coated |
145 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2010-2016 |
Glossy |
Glossy |
150 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2000-2010 |
Glossy |
Glossy |
155 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2000-2010 |
Glossy |
Flat |
150 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
1996-2000 |
Semi-gloss |
Flat |
155 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Modern |
2015-Present |
Foil |
Glossy |
155 |
15 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dark |
1991-1996 |
Glossy |
Flat |
160 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Copper |
1984-1991 |
Glossy |
Flat |
160 |
15 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Bronze |
1970-1984 |
Glossy |
Flat |
160 |
10 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Comic Foreign |
1970-1984 |
Ricepaper |
Ricepaper |
150 |
15 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Magazine Foreign |
1970-1984 |
Newspaper |
Newspaper |
155 |
15 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Silver |
1956-1970 |
Flat |
Flat |
160 |
15 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Golden |
1938-1955 |
Flat |
Flat |
165 |
20 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
If you are using metal plates in your press, you
will not flip the book.
After the heat press stage is complete, you will shut
off the press. Leave the book in the press with the temperature
shut off and cool down for several hours. 12 hours is
minimum time before removing from press. Probably ideal
to leave the book in the press for 24 hours or more.
DRY MOUNT LAMINATING MACHINES
For users of a "SEAL", "BIENFANG",
or "D&K" dry mount laminating press
machine: The Clamshell Press or Swivel Press heats up
much faster. The Seal and D&K Dry Mount Press Machines
take 10 minutes to reach preset temperature. Use this
knowledge to adjust/compensate for recommended start up
times and temperatures. You cannot quickpress a 2002-Present
modern age book with a Seal or D&K Dry Mount Press
Machine unless you preheat the machine first, for example.
The "Comic Book CPR" book was written
using a 15x15 Clamshell Press Machine. All recommended
times and temperatures are going to run 10 degrees fahrenheit
higher than a Seal or D&K Dry Mount Press
Machine. If the book recommends a temperature of 155F,
this is for a clamshell. If you have a Seal or D&K
machine use 145F, for example.
REVERSION
AFTER PRESSING
While rare, reversion can happen. Check back and verify
your book retained a good press after several weeks. I recommend
this step especially if you are pressing a book for a client,
friend, or a grading company! It is entirely possible to
come back several months later only to find your hard work
performed on the book reverted back to it’s previous state.
If this happens, you are definitely going to have to press
the book for a week or longer to keep it’s shape and press.
Some books can be stubborn. Don't doubt your pressing abilities,
just accept the fact some books will need to be pressed
several times to behave.
PEBBLING
Be sure to use magazine backer boards as a buffer between
your book and the press machine. Silicone Release Paper
(SRP) on your books and documents inside press. “Pebbling”
can cause divots on the surface of a book if the press plate
or pressure pad isn’t clean.
Make sure the silicone mat and pressure
plate are clean and free of debris. Make sure the pressure
plate and silicone release paper being used against the
book is clean and free of dirt. “Pebbling” can cause divots
on the surface of a book if not the press plate or pressure
pad isn’t clean. This is caused by anything from a speck
of dust, dirt, or cleaning shavings from using Absorene
or Magic Eraser.
HOW TO PRESS
COMIC BOOKS
65 lb. cardstock paper works signficantly better than copy
paper when used as a buffer. 1 sheet of cardstock paper
does the job of 3-4 sheets of copy paper. You will get maximum
results from spine damaged books using cardstock and steel
plates in your press machine. Cardstock
paper is not recommended for damp or wet books. There is
a risk of ripping the cover or causing spine splits. Here
are the 65 lb cardstock sandwich recipes with steel plates
for making your press-stack:
1. To prep, once you have ordered your 2 steel plates you
will need to use gloves and sandpaper to completely smooth
over the surfaces of the plates to remove burrs and scratches
or other imperfections in the steel. I used 120
grit and 180 grit sandpaper with a block of wood. If there
are deep scratches or burrs close your eyes and glide your
fingertips across the surface. If you can feel the indents
and scratches, you will need to use the other side of plate,
or replace it entirely.
Leave the press machine OFF and
COLD during this procedure. Look at the thickness
of 2 steel plates on top of one another. Now use the adjustment
knob of your press machine and counter clockwise turn that
knob until there is a gap when the press is closed. Make
sure this gap is bigger than the thickness of your comic
book, and the 2 steel plates. This is crucial.
2. Set 1 steel plate measuring at least
9" x 12" or larger on your clean silicone mat
of press. I still use the mat as a tiny bit of cusion when
clamping press down. Keep your plate sideways so
the book spine is in the inside of press where the most
pressure is at clamp of press.
3. 65 lb cardstock paper, or the above pictured
Super Bright 165 whiteness Inkjet copy paper
is used as a buffer for digital codes, tattooz inserts,
or other inserts inside a comic book. Do not use
Laserjet copy paper. Laserjet copypaper can lift
ink from glossy covers and glossy interior pages. Remember,
cardstock paper works best for stubborn spine dents and
Marvel digital code inserts. Some books will require copy
paper vs cardstock paper, due to the cardstock paper being
too thick. Thinner 65 lb cardstock paper or copypaper can
get closer to the spine. Covers can split or come apart
from the spine if you use the wrong method - so carefully
study the spine and thickness when determining what to use.
4. Set a magazine backer board down on bottom
steel plate. This acts as a buffer from dust, dirt, debris,
rust, and moisture from your book. Make sure backer boards
are glossy side in, towards book. Set a bottom sheet of
cut SRP (Silicone release paper) on your bottom metal steel
plate.
5. You can buy large 16×24 inch sheets of
SRP paper from ULINE and cut them into 4 smaller sheets.
Set
your book with interior stacking layers on SRP paper resting
on backer board and bottom steel plate.
6. Do not reuse copy paper, backer board,
or SRP paper using this technique. It is scrap after 1 use.
7. Place a backer board at
centerfold. Place the board up against the staples. Do
not place the backer board under the staple prongs.
The backer board is acting as the same height of the staples,
so as to not imprint staples into the interior pages of
the book. If you place it underneath the staple prongs,
you will have indents from both staples on the opposite
side of staple. Trust me. If you have spine ticks, place
2 sheets of copy paper under front cover and back cover.
Depending on how deep the spine ticks are, you may need
to place copy paper at page 2 and page 3 of front and back
of covers. Make certain your copy paper and boards are snug
up against the spine as close as possible. Set your book
"sandwich" carefully placed in the middle on bottom
SRP paper and bottom steel plate.
7b. If you have a digital code in
your book, see recipe above for the stacking of paper and
boards. If the book is thin with fewer pages, you can use
a magazine backer board or sheets of copy paper on the following
page of digital code insert. Thicker books require cardstock
paper or copy paper. Do not reuse your cardstock or copy
paper. It is now scrap paper after 1 use. FYI 65lb cardstock
paper works best instead of copy paper.
Or an older Marvel
comic with the larger 2" square digital code insert
like this:
Avenging Spider-man
#9 has a large 2" digital code insert on last page.
Use 3 sheets of copy paper as a buffer for the back cover.
Use 2 sheets of paper as a buffer on the page before the
last page. You will press using light pressure.
Older digital code inserts in Marvel Modern
Age books were on the last page, and very large, up to 2"
in size. The Modern Age Marvel books now from 2017-Present
are 1" square inserts found usually on the 4th or 5th
to the last page of book. New DC Comics from 2018-Present
feature a blue 1" digital code insert on last page. These
are very thick and require 110 lb cardstock. This can easily
imprint onto the back cover and surrounding pages.
Place a top sheet
of SRP Paper on your book sandwich.
8. Set a top sheet of cut SRP (Silicone release
paper) on your comic book. Set another top magazine backer
board on top of top SRP Paper and comic book being pressed.
This acts as a buffer from dust, dirt, debris, rust, and
moisture from your book.
9. Set your top steel plate carefully and
calmly on your stack of boards, comic, and srp paper that
is set on heat press machine surface. Make certain the book
is inside all outside edges of top and bottom stacks of
backer boards. If your book is outside the outer layer of
boards, you will imprint vertical lines down your covers.
10. Remember that crucial "gap"
I mentioned above in step 1? Make sure your gap is as large
as the thickness of both plates, backer boards, and your
book being pressed.
Most
steel plate book sandwiches will be around 0.35-0.40 inches
thick.
11. You want the press to clamp down very
lightly on the plates. Gently and meaningful but not forced
or aggressive. Make sure the press machine is OFF.
12. Use the pressure adjustment screw. Turn
it clockwise to increase pressure. Counter-clockwise decreases
pressure. The idea is to turn the knob to increase firm
pressure at first before clamping down on book. When you
are ready for the initial clamp of press, turn the knob
counter clockwise and back it off slowly as you clamp down
press. There should be firm but slight little resistance.
Do not press too hard. The adjustment screw will help you
with this. Think of it as driving a stickshift vehicle and
you are learning the clutch and gas pedal. Using too much
pressure will damage your book. This will pop staples, cause
vertical lines or seams to travel down the length of the
spine, or worse. Make certain to use firm but light pressure.
13. Turn the press ON.
Let the plate temperature heat up to match the book
at the same time.
14. Once the press machine has reached desired
temperature and time duration, you do not need to
flip the book or remove anything. Since steel is
a great conductor for heat, both surfaces of the book are
flashed with instant heat from both sides.
The book and plates will cool back down
to a very cool, cold temperature once 24 hours have passed.
After 24-48 hours, you are now ready to remove the book
from press machine:
Remove top magazine
backer board. Use a large golden age or magazine sized back
and board to slide under your book sandwich inside the press
to slide it out safely. This works if you are tight on space
or have another press next to it.
Slide bag/board under
bottom srp paper or backer board carefully and slowly.
Slide bag/board under
bottom srp paper very carefully and very slowly.
Now you can carefully
lift the stack by the flap and place your fingers underneath
both sides of bag/board supporting the weight and flatness
of the book.
You can now safely
walk the book over to another table for photographing or
evaluation prior to bag and board.
You can now safely
slide out the bottom supporting bag and board to carefully
disassemble your press stack.
15. After 24-48 hours is
up, carefully and slowly lift clamp on press. Remove top
plate very slowly and carefully. Try to lift the plate straight
up and not at an angle. Set your book sandwich stack down
carefully and on a flat, clean, level surface. I would not
reuse copy paper, backing boards, or SRP paper using this
method.
16. Remove boards and SRP paper by slowly
sliding each one out one at a time in the process. Latex
gloves help grip the book from the spine as you slide each
sheet away from book.
27. Photograph your results, or place inside
a bag and board. You are done.
If you are pressing a squarebound giant
sized book, the steps are the same. Only deviation from
this is for prestige format books with no staples, make
a stack of backer boards the same height as book before
setting top metal steel plate on top of book with stack
of backer boards pressed up against alongside spine.
After 3 weeks at CGC, this book has been
graded a 9.6 Near Mint condition comic book.
After 3 weeks at CGC, this book has been
graded a 9.8 Near Mint condition comic book.
WHAT IS A
"COLD PRESS"?
A "cold press" is just that, a "cold press
machine". Simply shutting off the press machine when
the timer beeps (or your phone alarm) and leaving the comic
book inside the press machine, left alone and un-touched
for a minimum of 12 hours. The recommended time for leaving
a comic book in the coldpress is at 24 hours for maximum
benefit. This prevents any sort of reversion or flaring
that could take place. This process cannot be rushed. Reversion
or unsatisfactory results can occur otherwise. There are
a few exceptions to the rule:
THE HUMIDIFICATION
PROCESS (ADVANCED)
Paper records such as maps, newspapers,
and documents that have been rolled or folded for long
periods of time often may be safely flattened using carefully
controlled humidification.
Not all books require moisture.
Most modern comics should not be introduced
to humidity or steam. However, some older books would
benefit from humidity. Brittle pages, Golden Age books,
Silver Age books, frustrating blunted corners without
color breaks, blunted spines, spine rolls, and rolled
up or folded in half comic books. But why would you use
moisture on books? The reason for this is the fibers of
the paper must be relaxed for the process of pressing
to actually take hold and remain. You can do this with
a simple humidifier or clothes fabric steamer. Use the
steamer for a few seconds to only make the pages curl.
As soon as paper movement is seen, move to a different
area or stop using steam. When creating new centerfolds,
fixing spine denting, and working with golden age books
– you are required to use steam. This is a very delicate
process and should be used with moderation.
KNOW WHEN
TO USE HUMIDITY
I cannot stress this enough: not all books
require moisture. Do not place a new modern age glossy
cover, glossy interior pages comic book inside a humidity
chamber. Chances are it will ruin the book. The modern
age books produced now are very forgiving with press machines
under flash heat without moisture. It is not recommended
to leave a comic book inside humidity chamber over 24
hours. You will start to wash out colors. Most in the
community agree that 10-12 hours with a bowl of room temperature
distilled water is the average recommended time for controlled
gradual humidity. The water level is what is the most
crucial element to your tank working effectively.
Use humidity on books that feature:
-
Golden Age
-
Silver Age
-
Subscription folds
-
Bunched spines
-
Deep creaselines
-
Spine straightening
-
Spine rolls
-
Stubborn creasing
-
Corner flaps
-
Cream to Off-White Pages
Do NOT
use humidity on books that feature:
-
Brittle pages
-
Loose pieces
-
Spine splits greater than 1"
-
Detached covers
-
Detached pages
-
Rusty staples
DISTILLED
WATER
Always use distilled water. There are
no minerals or dirt in distilled water. Otherwise you
will get water spots and staining from the minerals if
you do not use distilled water. It is recommended to empty
the water chamber after several uses, or you will develop
unwanted mildew. Do not use tap water. Water stains and
water spots can develop on your book. Tap water also can
cause off-white pages.
HUMIDITY TANK AND PAGE QUALITY
When using a humidity tank with a comic book, it is not
unusual for a book to have "off-white pages"
and receive "white pages" as the new page quality
designation. For the same reason tap water can cause off-white
pages, (by minerals absorbing into the paper fibers) clean
distilled water can cause white pages. It's always a good
idea to replace your water between uses and dry when empty.
USING HUMIDIFICATION
Most books will not require humidity. If a book is old,
brittle, feels very dry and rigid to the touch – then
you should probably use humidity. Time and patience will
guide you. Always better to use not enough humidity with
a slightly disappointing press with no damage to the book
and do it again than to use TOO MUCH humidity and ruin
the book, right?! Too much humidity and too much heat
can cause edge flaring and a wavy cover. If you are using
a clothes steamer, be sure to steam from a safe 1-2 foot
distance so droplets of water don’t splash on the book.
This can create light circle spots when dry. Also do not
over steam staples or they will rust. The safest method
would be to make your own hydration humidifier chamber
with basic supplies at Home Depot or Walmart.
STEAM INSIDE
YOUR HUMIDIFICATION CHAMBER (OPTIONAL, ADVANCED)
The recommended and average method for this technique
is to use room temperature distilled water. Some applications
will require a different accelerated approach. A lot of
this depends on trial and error, experience, and varying
conditons of books. Use a plastic mixing bowl or cereal
bowl to control your water levels. If this is not effective
enough, try pouring 1/4 gallon or 1/2 gallon of room temperature
distilled water in the entire bottom of tank. Most of
these recommended methods also depend on what type of
climate or region you live in. Experiment and see what
works best for you and your needs.
3 recommended safe methods for
most books based on personal and user experiences:
1. While using 2 cups room temperature
distilled water, you should leave the book inside the
chamber for 24 hrs. Personally, I place a book in the
humidity tank at 9pm and take it out the next morning
at 9am. Longer durations exceeding 24 hours could start
to wash out color. You will fade the cover if left in
chamber for too long with too much distilled water at
the bottom of tank. Control your water levels for maximum
effectiveness.
2. Most average books from Golden Age
to Bronze Age with light creasing can be placed in humidity
tank with room temperature distilled water for 2 hours
but not more than 6 hours.
3. For really stubborn books that have
heavy subscription folds or creaselines: Forget the small
plastic bowl. Boil 1-2 cups of distilled water on the
stove top. Pour the 1-2 cups of boiling distilled water
inside your chamber with 1 half gallon of room temperature
distilled water inside the entire bottom of tub to provide
accelerated steam evenly to the book. Do not boil more
than 1-2 cups. It would introduce more than 120% humidity
with temperatures too hot that will cause warping and
damage to your book. When using boiled distilled water
you should check on your book after 2 hours.
NOTE: If your books are
wavy after final press, try using less water in the tank,
or a smaller duration inside the tank. Your method will
always have to be dialed in due to: climate changes, seasonal
changes, and room humidity variations where you press
books. You will always have to adjust or dial it back
a notch once in a while when you notice subtle changes
in your final work. Wavy books = too much humidity. Remember:
Keep that top and bottom edge FLAT and STRAIGHT, just
like how the book was first printed.
MAKE YOUR OWN HUMIDIFICATION
CHAMBER (ADVANCED)
Go to Walmart and find the kitchen department. Here is
a step-by-step pictoral using simple materials at Walmart
for under $30:
You will need: 1
gallon of distilled water, some terry cloths from the
kitchen department, a 40qt storage tub, cooking grill
grate, some plastic cups and an optional plastic bowl.
Another way to build
a humidity tank.... (many options) Just make sure the
storage tub is air tight and can be sealed. Set something
heavy on top of lid when closed.
Make sure you use
distilled water.
Fill the bottom of
humidity tank (or optional bowl) with distilled water
as much humidity you think the book will need. See chart
above for recommended water levels. Stubborn books might
require longer exposure times. Placing your humidity tank
under a window seal with the bright sun shining down on
it will also help create steam inside tank.
Set your cooking
grate on top of 4 plastic cups taller than the bowl (water
level)
Place a buffer between
your comic book and any water droplets that might land.
You may use synthetic nylon window screen, a towel, or
terry cloth on your grate surface. Then place a magazine
backer board on top of buffer or terry cloth. Place book
on backer board as pictured above.
Now place another
magazine backer board on top of your book.
Place another buffer
such as a terry cloth on top of boards and comic book
for protection and a little weight.
This is another example
of a Humidity tank using slightly different materials
but achieves the same results. Your humidity tank should
look similar if not the same.
Close lid up tight
and place something heavy on top of lid to retain seal
inside to trap the humidity inside tank.
Another example of
a similar humidity tank. This one uses a Weber grill surface
grate and nylon window screens cut to 12"x18"
Here is what
a humidity tank can do for you:
2001 Marvel Comics
SPIDER-MAN 2099 #1 Second Printing Corner ding
2001 Marvel Comics
SPIDER-MAN 2099 #1 Second Printing Spine ding
2001 Marvel Comics
SPIDER-MAN 2099 #1 Second Printing horizontal bend from
left to right across entire book and throughout all pages
of book from blister packaging comic book originally came
inside of with packaged action figure toy from Toybiz.
After 12 hours inside
humidity tank as pictured above. Pressed using steel plates
and magazine backer boards with 65 lb cardstock paper
at 160F degrees for 5 minutes and left overnight in coldpress
for 24 hours.
After 12 hours inside
humidity tank as pictured above. Pressed using steel plates
and magazine backer boards with 65 lb cardstock paper
at 160F degrees for 5 minutes and left overnight in coldpress
for 24 hours.
After 3 weeks at CGC, this book has been graded a 9.8
Near Mint condition comic book.
OPEN OR FLAT?
Most comics books I will lay closed and flat between two
assembled magazine bag and boards. I then make sure to have
cloth above and below that. For comics that require a spine
roll realignment or feature heavy creasing, I place the
book open at the centerfold, facing up.
The Overstreet
Guide To Grading Comics
The
Overstreet Guide To Grading Comics includes the 10-point
grading system, as well as exhaustive descriptions of
Primary and Split Grades, examples of each grade with
more than 200 full-color images in all, articles on storage,
preservation, and restoration, a look at the independent,
third-party grading companies, and much more. You absolutely
must own this book if you plan to buy or sell on ebay.
Use this book also as a way to argue if a book is not
in the advertised condition if you feel you are ripped
off.
YOUTUBE
TUTORIAL VIDEO PLAYLIST
I recently started some tutorial videos that illustrate
different methods and techniques covered on this page.
The videos do not have audio or sound and are shot with
a gopro camera in 1080p. I don't want to be that guy,
but they take a really long time to produce and edit so,
"Please give a like and subscribe" Thanks!
How
to Press Comic Books Playlist by KaptainMyke on Youtube
ADVANCED
PRESSING METHODS
You have read my free guide which covers everything you
need to know in order to get started pressing comics.
However, there are many advanced topics and advanced methods
not covered in this free online guide. What about restoration
detection or how to press squarebound prestige format
comics? Comic Book CPR answers all of those questions
and more.
COMIC BOOK
CPR
This 156 page field guide and training manual is a must-have
for any comic book collector. Comic Book CPR teaches awareness
on proper comic book handling, shipping, selling, and
buying tactics. Protect your investment by reading this
book today. This is a collaborated effort of 25 people
and 4 writers! Includes all new, never before seen material.
Paperback Edition: https://amzn.to/2XfC6XV
$49.99
E-Book Edition: https://amzn.to/2NeuTmf
$39.99
KAPTAINMYKE PRESS © 2019
COMIC BOOK
STAIN REMOVAL AND WHITENING
Comic Book Stain Removal and Whitening is the ALL
NEW 225 page supplemental guide to the bestselling
book, Comic Book CPR. Take your pressing
to the next level with the Heat Overlay Press stain removal
method and all new BLED Light Box. For experienced
pressers who can troubleshoot advanced defects.
ISBN 979-8-794-40827-0
Paperback Edition: https://amzn.to/3IfQLoL
$59.99
E-Book Edition: https://amzn.to/3qxmgEN
$49.99
KAPTAINMYKE PRESS © 2022
CGC COMICS
The author is also an authorized and licensed CGC Dealer.
Have peace and mind the advice given on this website will
help you achieve the absolute highest grades possible
with CGC. CGC is the most trusted authority on third party
grading of comic books since 2000.
JOIN US
There is a dedicated Facebook Group called "KaptainMyke
Comic Book Pressing" for anyone to join and contribute
ideas open for discussion. Ask questions about this guide
or show off your own books! Anyone is welcome to join.
I firmly believe the spread of accurate free information
will help us all keep books preserved and conserved. You
may find the Facebook Group at this link here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/kaptainmykecomicpressing
CONCLUSION
The overall goal of this guide is simple: Press books
in a manner so that others cannot detect the book has
been pressed. Light pressure, not firm or hard pressure.
Do not burn the book, do not pop the staples, and do not
spin the books on surfaces. For temperatures, 150-160
degrees or lower seems to be the “sweet spot” on most
books to play it safe. Pressing under high heat for less
than 5-7 minutes on each side is good for most books.
Keep moisture and humidity to a minimum on your books.
Always keep a timer with you and don’t forget to set your
timer! These steps are some of the things that can be
done to successfully press a comic book, magazine, or
poster with minimal to no damage to the item being pressed.
These tips will hopefully save you money,
and guide you along the way as YOU learn and pick up new
ideas and better ways to accomplish things. I am not a
professional presser, and I’m not a professional grader.
However, these are the methods I use when I press comic
books as a hobbyist.
All of this is a learning process. I encourage
you all to share your ideas among everyone so that we
can all prevent damage to one another’s books. I am open
to any feedback and suggestions. I also reside in a coastal
Northwestern state, which is more humid than inland states.
Your results may vary based on humidity and temperature
of the climate you reside in.
Shareable Links:
